From: joedees@bellsouth.net
Date: Fri Sep 13 2002 - 20:49:11 MDT
Read it and vomit
THE GREAT TERROR 
by JEFFREY GOLDBERG 
In northern Iraq, there is new evidence of Saddam Hussein's 
genocidal war on the Kurds”and of his possible ties to Al Qaeda. 
Issue of 2002-03-25
Posted 2002-03-25 
In the late morning of March 16, 1988, an Iraqi Air Force 
helicopter appeared over the city of Halabja, which is about 
fifteen miles from the border with Iran. The Iran-Iraq War was 
then in its eighth year, and Halabja was near the front lines. At the 
time, the city was home to roughly eighty thousand Kurds, who 
were well accustomed to the proximity of violence to ordinary 
life. Like most of Iraqi Kurdistan, Halabja was in perpetual revolt 
against the regime of Saddam Hussein, and its inhabitants were 
supporters of the peshmerga, the Kurdish fighters whose name 
means "those who face death."
A young woman named Nasreen Abdel Qadir Muhammad was 
outside her family's house, preparing food, when she saw the 
helicopter. The Iranians and the peshmerga had just attacked Iraqi 
military outposts around Halabja, forcing Saddam's soldiers to 
retreat. Iranian Revolutionary Guards then infiltrated the city, and 
the residents assumed that an Iraqi counterattack was imminent. 
Nasreen and her family expected to spend yet another day in their 
cellar, which was crude and dark but solid enough to withstand 
artillery shelling, and even napalm.
"At about ten o'clock, maybe closer to ten-thirty, I saw the 
helicopter," Nasreen told me. "It was not attacking, though. There 
were men inside it, taking pictures. One had a regular camera, and 
the other held what looked like a video camera. They were 
coming very close. Then they went away."
Nasreen thought that the sight was strange, but she was 
preoccupied with lunch; she and her sister Rangeen were 
preparing rice, bread, and beans for the thirty or forty relatives 
who were taking shelter in the cellar. Rangeen was fifteen at the 
time. Nasreen was just sixteen, but her father had married her off 
several months earlier, to a cousin, a thirty-year-old physician's 
assistant named Bakhtiar Abdul Aziz. Halabja is a conservative 
place, and many more women wear the veil than in the more 
cosmopolitan Kurdish cities to the northwest and the Arab cities 
to the south.
The bombardment began shortly before eleven. The Iraqi Army, 
positioned on the main road from the nearby town of Sayid Sadiq, 
fired artillery shells into Halabja, and the Air Force began 
dropping what is thought to have been napalm on the town, 
especially the northern area. Nasreen and Rangeen rushed to the 
cellar. Nasreen prayed that Bakhtiar, who was then outside the 
city, would find shelter.
The attack had ebbed by about two o'clock, and Nasreen made her 
way carefully upstairs to the kitchen, to get the food for the 
family. "At the end of the bombing, the sound changed," she said. 
"It wasn't so loud. It was like pieces of metal just dropping 
without exploding. We didn't know why it was so quiet."
A short distance away, in a neighborhood still called the Julakan, 
or Jewish quarter, even though Halabja's Jews left for Israel in the 
nineteen-fifties, a middle-aged man named Muhammad came up 
from his own cellar and saw an unusual sight: "A helicopter had 
come back to the town, and the soldiers were throwing white 
pieces of paper out the side." In retrospect, he understood that 
they were measuring wind speed and direction. Nearby, a man 
named Awat Omer, who was twenty at the time, was 
overwhelmed by a smell of garlic and apples.
Nasreen gathered the food quickly, but she, too, noticed a series of 
odd smells carried into the house by the wind. "At first, it smelled 
bad, like garbage," she said. "And then it was a good smell, like 
sweet apples. Then like eggs." Before she went downstairs, she 
happened to check on a caged partridge that her father kept in the 
house. "The bird was dying," she said. "It was on its side." She 
looked out the window. "It was very quiet, but the animals were 
dying. The sheep and goats were dying." Nasreen ran to the cellar. 
"I told everybody there was something wrong. There was 
something wrong with the air."
The people in the cellar were panicked. They had fled downstairs 
to escape the bombardment, and it was difficult to abandon their 
shelter. Only splinters of light penetrated the basement, but the 
dark provided a strange comfort. "We wanted to stay in hiding, 
even though we were getting sick," Nasreen said. She felt a sharp 
pain in her eyes, like stabbing needles. "My sister came close to 
my face and said, 'Your eyes are very red.' Then the children 
started throwing up. They kept throwing up. They were in so 
much pain, and crying so much. They were crying all the time. My 
mother was crying. Then the old people started throwing up."
Chemical weapons had been dropped on Halabja by the Iraqi Air 
Force, which understood that any underground shelter would 
become a gas chamber. "My uncle said we should go outside," 
Nasreen said. "We knew there were chemicals in the air. We were 
getting red eyes, and some of us had liquid coming out of them. 
We decided to run." Nasreen and her relatives stepped outside 
gingerly. "Our cow was lying on its side," she recalled. "It was 
breathing very fast, as if it had been running. The leaves were 
falling off the trees, even though it was spring. The partridge was 
dead. There were smoke clouds around, clinging to the ground. 
The gas was heavier than the air, and it was finding the wells and 
going down the wells."
The family judged the direction of the wind, and decided to run 
the opposite way. Running proved difficult. "The children couldn't 
walk, they were so sick," Nasreen said. "They were exhausted 
from throwing up. We carried them in our arms."
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Across the city, other families were making similar decisions. 
Nouri Hama Ali, who lived in the northern part of town, decided 
to lead his family in the direction of Anab, a collective settlement 
on the outskirts of Halabja that housed Kurds displaced when the 
Iraqi Army destroyed their villages. "On the road to Anab, many 
of the women and children began to die," Nouri told me. "The 
chemical clouds were on the ground. They were heavy. We could 
see them." People were dying all around, he said. When a child 
could not go on, the parents, becoming hysterical with fear, 
abandoned him. "Many children were left on the ground, by the 
side of the road. Old people as well. They were running, then they 
would stop breathing and die."
Nasreen's family did not move quickly. "We wanted to wash 
ourselves off and find water to drink," she said. "We wanted to 
wash the faces of the children who were vomiting. The children 
were crying for water. There was powder on the ground, white. 
We couldn't decide whether to drink the water or not, but some 
people drank the water from the well they were so thirsty."
They ran in a panic through the city, Nasreen recalled, in the 
direction of Anab. The bombardment continued intermittently, Air 
Force planes circling overhead. "People were showing different 
symptoms. One person touched some of the powder, and her skin 
started bubbling."
A truck came by, driven by a neighbor. People threw themselves 
aboard. "We saw people lying frozen on the ground," Nasreen told 
me. "There was a small baby on the ground, away from her 
mother. I thought they were both sleeping. But she had dropped 
the baby and then died. And I think the baby tried to crawl away, 
but it died, too. It looked like everyone was sleeping."
At that moment, Nasreen believed that she and her family would 
make it to high ground and live. Then the truck stopped. "The 
driver said he couldn't go on, and he wandered away. He left his 
wife in the back of the truck. He told us to flee if we could. The 
chemicals affected his brain, because why else would someone 
abandon his family?"
As heavy clouds of gas smothered the city, people became sick 
and confused. Awat Omer was trapped in his cellar with his 
family; he said that his brother began laughing uncontrollably and 
then stripped off his clothes, and soon afterward he died. As night 
fell, the family's children grew sicker”too sick to move.
Nasreen's husband could not be found, and she began to think that 
all was lost. She led the children who were able to walk up the 
road.
In another neighborhood, Muhammad Ahmed Fattah, who was 
twenty, was overwhelmed by an oddly sweet odor of sulfur, and 
he, too, realized that he must evacuate his family; there were 
about a hundred and sixty people wedged into the cellar. "I saw 
the bomb drop," Muhammad told me. "It was about thirty metres 
from the house. I shut the door to the cellar. There was shouting 
and crying in the cellar, and then people became short of breath." 
One of the first to be stricken by the gas was Muhammad's brother 
Salah. "His eyes were pink," Muhammad recalled. "There was 
something coming out of his eyes. He was so thirsty he was 
demanding water." Others in the basement began suffering 
tremors.
March 16th was supposed to be Muhammad's wedding day. 
"Every preparation was done," he said. His fiancée, a woman 
named Bahar Jamal, was among the first in the cellar to die. "She 
was crying very hard," Muhammad recalled. "I tried to calm her 
down. I told her it was just the usual artillery shells, but it didn't 
smell the usual way weapons smelled. She was smart, she knew 
what was happening. She died on the stairs. Her father tried to 
help her, but it was too late."
Death came quickly to others as well. A woman named Hamida 
Mahmoud tried to save her two-year-old daughter by allowing her 
to nurse from her breast. Hamida thought that the baby wouldn't 
breathe in the gas if she was nursing, Muhammad said, adding, 
"The baby's name was Dashneh. She nursed for a long time. Her 
mother died while she was nursing. But she kept nursing." By the 
time Muhammad decided to go outside, most of the people in the 
basement were unconscious; many were dead, including his 
parents and three of his siblings.
Nasreen said that on the road to Anab all was confusion. She and 
the children were running toward the hills, but they were going 
blind. "The children were crying, 'We can't see! My eyes are 
bleeding!' " In the chaos, the family got separated. Nasreen's 
mother and father were both lost. Nasreen and several of her 
cousins and siblings inadvertently led the younger children in a 
circle, back into the city. Someone”she doesn't know who”led 
them away from the city again and up a hill, to a small mosque, 
where they sought shelter. "But we didn't stay in the mosque, 
because we thought it would be a target," Nasreen said. They went 
to a small house nearby, and Nasreen scrambled to find food and 
water for the children. By then, it was night, and she was 
exhausted.
{PRIVATE "TYPE=PICT;ALT="}
Bakhtiar, Nasreen's husband, was frantic. Outside the city when 
the attacks started, he had spent much of the day searching for his 
wife and the rest of his family. He had acquired from a clinic two 
syringes of atropine, a drug that helps to counter the effects of 
nerve agents. He injected himself with one of the syringes, and set 
out to find Nasreen. He had no hope. "My plan was to bury her," 
he said. "At least I should bury my new wife."
After hours of searching, Bakhtiar met some neighbors, who 
remembered seeing Nasreen and the children moving toward the 
mosque on the hill. "I called out the name Nasreen," he said. "I 
heard crying, and I went inside the house. When I got there, I 
found that Nasreen was alive but blind. Everybody was blind."
Nasreen had lost her sight about an hour or two before Bakhtiar 
found her. She had been searching the house for food, so that she 
could feed the children, when her eyesight failed. "I found some 
milk and I felt my way to them and then I found their mouths and 
gave them milk," she said.
Bakhtiar organized the children. "I wanted to bring them to the 
well. I washed their heads. I took them two by two and washed 
their heads. Some of them couldn't come. They couldn't control 
their muscles."
Bakhtiar still had one syringe of atropine, but he did not inject his 
wife; she was not the worst off in the group. "There was a woman 
named Asme, who was my neighbor," Bakhtiar recalled. "She was 
not able to breathe. She was yelling and she was running into a 
wall, crashing her head into a wall. I gave the atropine to this 
woman." Asme died soon afterward. "I could have used it for 
Nasreen," Bakhtiar said. "I could have."
After the Iraqi bombardment subsided, the Iranians managed to 
retake Halabja, and they evacuated many of the sick, including 
Nasreen and the others in her family, to hospitals in Tehran.
Nasreen was blind for twenty days. "I was thinking the whole 
time, Where is my family? But I was blind. I couldn't do anything. 
I asked my husband about my mother, but he said he didn't know 
anything. He was looking in hospitals, he said. He was avoiding 
the question."
The Iranian Red Crescent Society, the equivalent of the Red 
Cross, began compiling books of photographs, pictures of the 
dead in Halabja. "The Red Crescent has an album of the people 
who were buried in Iran," Nasreen said. "And we found my 
mother in one of the albums." Her father, she discovered, was 
alive but permanently blinded. Five of her siblings, including 
Rangeen, had died.
Nasreen would live, the doctors said, but she kept a secret from 
Bakhtiar: "When I was in the hospital, I started menstruating. It 
wouldn't stop. I kept bleeding. We don't talk about this in our 
society, but eventually a lot of women in the hospital confessed 
they were also menstruating and couldn't stop." Doctors gave her 
drugs that stopped the bleeding, but they told her that she would 
be unable to bear children.
Nasreen stayed in Iran for several months, but eventually she and 
Bakhtiar returned to Kurdistan. She didn't believe the doctors who 
told her that she would be infertile, and in 1991 she gave birth to a 
boy. "We named him Arazoo," she said. Arazoo means hope in 
Kurdish. "He was healthy at first, but he had a hole in his heart. 
He died at the age of three months."
{PRIVATE "TYPE=PICT;ALT="}
I met Nasreen last month in Erbil, the largest city in Iraqi 
Kurdistan. She is thirty now, a pretty woman with brown eyes and 
high cheekbones, but her face is expressionless. She doesn't seek 
pity; she would, however, like a doctor to help her with a cough 
that she's had ever since the attack, fourteen years ago. Like many 
of Saddam Hussein's victims, she tells her story without emotion.
During my visit to Kurdistan, I talked with more than a hundred 
victims of Saddam's campaign against the Kurds. Saddam has 
been persecuting the Kurds ever since he took power, more than 
twenty years ago. Several old women whose husbands were killed 
by Saddam's security services expressed a kind of animal hatred 
toward him, but most people, like Nasreen, told stories of horrific 
cruelty with a dispassion and a precision that underscored their 
credibility. Credibility is important to the Kurds; after all this 
time, they still feel that the world does not believe their story.
A week after I met Nasreen, I visited a small village called 
Goktapa, situated in a green valley that is ringed by snow-covered 
mountains. Goktapa came under poison-gas attack six weeks after 
Halabja. The village consists of low mud-brick houses along dirt 
paths. In Goktapa, an old man named Ahmed Raza Sharif told me 
that on the day of the attack on Goktapa, May 3, 1988, he was in 
the fields outside the village. He saw the shells explode and 
smelled the sweet-apple odor as poison filled the air. His son, 
Osman Ahmed, who was sixteen at the time, was near the village 
mosque when he was felled by the gas. He crawled down a hill 
and died among the reeds on the banks of the Lesser Zab, the river 
that flows by the village. His father knew that he was dead, but he 
couldn't reach the body. As many as a hundred and fifty people 
died in the attack; the survivors fled before the advancing Iraqi 
Army, which levelled the village. Ahmed Raza Sharif did not 
return for three years. When he did, he said, he immediately began 
searching for his son's body. He found it still lying in the reeds. "I 
recognized his body right away," he said.
The summer sun in Iraq is blisteringly hot, and a corpse would be 
unidentifiable three years after death. I tried to find a gentle way 
to express my doubts, but my translator made it clear to Sharif 
that I didn't believe him.
We were standing in the mud yard of another old man, Ibrahim 
Abdul Rahman. Twenty or thirty people, a dozen boys among 
them, had gathered. Some of them seemed upset that I appeared to 
doubt the story, but Ahmed hushed them. "It's true, he lost all the 
flesh on his body," he said. "He was just a skeleton. But the 
clothes were his, and they were still on the skeleton, a belt and a 
shirt. In the pocket of his shirt I found the key to our tractor. 
That's where he always kept the key."
Some of the men still seemed concerned that I would leave 
Goktapa doubting their truthfulness. Ibrahim, the man in whose 
yard we were standing, called out a series of orders to the boys 
gathered around us. They dispersed, to houses and storerooms, 
returning moments later holding jagged pieces of metal, the 
remnants of the bombs that poisoned Goktapa. Ceremoniously, 
the boys dropped the pieces of metal at my feet. "Here are the 
mercies of Uncle Saddam," Ibrahim said.
2. THE AFTERMATH 
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The story of Halabja did not end the night the Iraqi Air Force 
planes returned to their bases. The Iranians invited the foreign 
press to record the devastation. Photographs of the victims, 
supine, bleached of color, littering the gutters and alleys of the 
town, horrified the world. Saddam Hussein's attacks on his own 
citizens mark the only time since the Holocaust that poison gas 
has been used to exterminate women and children.
Saddam's cousin Ali Hassan al-Majid, who led the campaigns 
against the Kurds in the late eighties, was heard on a tape captured 
by rebels, and later obtained by Human Rights Watch, addressing 
members of Iraq's ruling Baath Party on the subject of the Kurds. 
"I will kill them all with chemical weapons!" he said. "Who is 
going to say anything? The international community? Fuck them! 
The international community and those who listen to them."
Attempts by Congress in 1988 to impose sanctions on Iraq were 
stifled by the Reagan and Bush Administrations, and the story of 
Saddam's surviving victims might have vanished completely had it 
not been for the reporting of people like Randal and the work of a 
British documentary filmmaker named Gwynne Roberts, who, 
after hearing stories about a sudden spike in the incidence of birth 
defects and cancers, not only in Halabja but also in other parts of 
Kurdistan, had made some disturbing films on the subject. 
However, no Western government or United Nations agency took 
up the cause.
In 1998, Roberts brought an Englishwoman named Christine 
Gosden to Kurdistan. Gosden is a medical geneticist and a 
professor at the medical school of the University of Liverpool. 
She spent three weeks in the hospitals in Kurdistan, and came 
away determined to help the Kurds. To the best of my knowledge, 
Gosden is the only Western scientist who has even begun making 
a systematic study of what took place in northern Iraq.
Gosden told me that her father was a high-ranking officer in the 
Royal Air Force, and that as a child she lived in Germany, near 
Bergen-Belsen. "It's tremendously influential in your early years to 
live near a concentration camp," she said. In Kurdistan, she heard 
echoes of the German campaign to destroy the Jews. "The Iraqi 
government was using chemistry to reduce the population of 
Kurds," she said. "The Holocaust is still having its effect. The 
Jews are fewer in number now than they were in 1939. That's not 
natural. Now, if you take out two hundred thousand men and boys 
from Kurdistan"”an estimate of the number of Kurds who were 
gassed or otherwise murdered in the campaign, most of whom 
were men and boys”"you've affected the population structure. 
There are a lot of widows who are not having children."
Richard Butler, an Australian diplomat who chaired the United 
Nations weapons-inspection team in Iraq, describes Gosden as "a 
classic English, old-school-tie kind of person." Butler has tracked 
her research since she began studying the attacks, four years ago, 
and finds it credible. "Occasionally, people say that this is 
Christine's obsession, but obsession is not a bad thing," he added.
Before I went to Kurdistan, in January, I spent a day in London 
with Gosden. We gossiped a bit, and she scolded me for having 
visited a Washington shopping mall without appropriate 
protective equipment. Whenever she goes to a mall, she brings 
along a polyurethane bag "big enough to step into" and a bottle of 
bleach. "I can detoxify myself immediately," she said.
Gosden believes it is quite possible that the countries of the West 
will soon experience chemical- and biological-weapons attacks 
far more serious and of greater lasting effect than the anthrax 
incidents of last autumn and the nerve-agent attack on the Tokyo 
subway system several years ago”that what happened in 
Kurdistan was only the beginning. "For Saddam's scientists, the 
Kurds were a test population," she said. "They were the human 
guinea pigs. It was a way of identifying the most effective 
chemical agents for use on civilian populations, and the most 
effective means of delivery."
The charge is supported by others. An Iraqi defector, Khidhir 
Hamza, who is the former director of Saddam's nuclear-weapons 
program, told me earlier this year that before the attack on 
Halabja military doctors had mapped the city, and that afterward 
they entered it wearing protective clothing, in order to study the 
dispersal of the dead. "These were field tests, an experiment on a 
town," Hamza told me. He said that he had direct knowledge of 
the Army's procedures that day in Halabja. "The doctors were 
given sheets with grids on them, and they had to answer questions 
such as 'How far are the dead from the cannisters?' "
Gosden said that she cannot understand why the West has not 
been more eager to investigate the chemical attacks in Kurdistan. 
"It seems a matter of enlightened self-interest that the West would 
want to study the long-term effects of chemical weapons on 
civilians, on the DNA," she told me. "I've seen Europe's worst 
cancers, but, believe me, I have never seen cancers like the ones I 
saw in Kurdistan."
According to an ongoing survey conducted by a team of Kurdish 
physicians and organized by Gosden and a small advocacy group 
called the Washington Kurdish Institute, more than two hundred 
towns and villages across Kurdistan were attacked by poison 
gas”far more than was previously thought”in the course of 
seventeen months. The number of victims is unknown, but doctors 
I met in Kurdistan believe that up to ten per cent of the population 
of northern Iraq”nearly four million people”has been exposed 
to chemical weapons. "Saddam Hussein poisoned northern Iraq," 
Gosden said when I left for Halabja. "The questions, then, are 
what to do? And what comes next?"
3. HALABJA'S DOCTORS 
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The Kurdish people, it is often said, make up the largest stateless 
nation in the world. They have been widely despised by their 
neighbors for centuries. There are roughly twenty-five million 
Kurds, most of them spread across four countries in southwestern 
Asia: Turkey, Iran, Iraq, and Syria. The Kurds are neither Arab, 
Persian, nor Turkish; they are a distinct ethnic group, with their 
own culture and language. Most Kurds are Muslim (the most 
famous Muslim hero of all, Saladin, who defeated the Crusaders, 
was of Kurdish origin), but there are Jewish and Christian Kurds, 
and also followers of the Yezidi religion, which has its roots in 
Sufism and Zoroastrianism. The Kurds are experienced mountain 
fighters, who tend toward stubbornness and have frequent bouts of 
destructive infighting.
After centuries of domination by foreign powers, the Kurds had 
their best chance at independence after the First World War, when 
President Woodrow Wilson promised the Kurds, along with other 
groups left drifting and exposed by the collapse of the Ottoman 
Empire, a large measure of autonomy. But the machinations of the 
great powers, who were becoming interested in Kurdistan's vast 
oil deposits, in Mosul and Kirkuk, quickly did the Kurds out of a 
state.
In the nineteen-seventies, the Iraqi Kurds allied themselves with 
the Shah of Iran in a territorial dispute with Iraq. America, the 
Shah's patron, once again became the Kurds' patron, too, 
supplying them with arms for a revolt against Baghdad. But a 
secret deal between the Iraqis and the Shah, arranged in 1975 by 
Secretary of State Henry Kissinger, cut off the Kurds and brought 
about their instant collapse; for the Kurds, it was an ugly betrayal.
The Kurdish safe haven, in northern Iraq, was born of another 
American betrayal. In 1991, after the United States helped drive 
Iraq out of Kuwait, President George Bush ignored an uprising 
that he himself had stoked, and Kurds and Shiites in Iraq were 
slaughtered by the thousands. Thousands more fled the country, 
the Kurds going to Turkey, and almost immediately creating a 
humanitarian disaster. The Bush Administration, faced with a 
televised catastrophe, declared northern Iraq a no-fly zone and 
thus a safe haven, a tactic that allowed the refugees to return 
home. And so, under the protective shield of the United States and 
British Air Forces, the unplanned Kurdish experiment in self-
government began. Although the Kurdish safe haven is only a 
virtual state, it is an incipient democracy, a home of progressive 
Islamic thought and pro-American feeling.
Today, Iraqi Kurdistan is split between two dominant parties: the 
Kurdistan Democratic Party, led by Massoud Barzani, and the 
Patriotic Union of Kurdistan, whose General Secretary is Jalal 
Talabani. The two parties have had an often angry relationship, 
and in the mid-nineties they fought a war that left about a 
thousand soldiers dead. The parties, realizing that they could not 
rule together, decided to rule apart, dividing Kurdistan into two 
zones. The internal political divisions have not aided the Kurds' 
cause, but neighboring states also have fomented disunity, fearing 
that a unified Kurdish population would agitate for independence.
Turkey, with a Kurdish population of between fifteen and twenty 
million, has repressed the Kurds in the eastern part of the country, 
politically and militarily, on and off since the founding of the 
modern Turkish state. In 1924, the government of Atatürk 
restricted the use of the Kurdish language (a law not lifted until 
1991) and expressions of Kurdish culture; to this day, the Kurds 
are referred to in nationalist circles as "mountain Turks."
Turkey is not eager to see Kurds anywhere draw attention to 
themselves, which is why the authorities in Ankara refused to let 
me cross the border into Iraqi Kurdistan. Iran, whose Kurdish 
population numbers between six and eight million, was not 
helpful, either, and my only option for gaining entrance to 
Kurdistan was through its third neighbor, Syria. The Kurdistan 
Democratic Party arranged for me to be met in Damascus and 
taken to the eastern desert city of El Qamishli. From there, I was 
driven in a Land Cruiser to the banks of the Tigris River, where a 
small wooden boat, with a crew of one and an outboard motor, 
was waiting. The engine spluttered; when I learned that the 
forward lines of the Iraqi Army were two miles downstream, I 
began to paddle, too. On the other side of the river were 
representatives of the Kurdish Democratic Party and the 
peshmerga, the Kurdish guerrillas, who wore pantaloons and 
turbans and were armed with AK-47s.
"Welcome to Kurdistan" read a sign at the water's edge greeting 
visitors to a country that does not exist.
{PRIVATE "TYPE=PICT;ALT="}
Halabja is a couple of hundred miles from the Syrian border, and I 
spent a week crossing northern Iraq, making stops in the cities of 
Dahuk and Erbil on the way. I was handed over to representatives 
of the Patriotic Union, which controls Halabja, at a demilitarized 
zone west of the town of Koysinjaq. From there, it was a two-hour 
drive over steep mountains to Sulaimaniya, a city of six hundred 
and fifty thousand, which is the cultural capital of Iraqi Kurdistan. 
In Sulaimaniya, I met Fouad Baban, one of Kurdistan's leading 
physicians, who promised to guide me through the scientific and 
political thickets of Halabja.
Baban, a pulmonary and cardiac specialist who has survived three 
terms in Iraqi prisons, is sixty years old, and a man of impish good 
humor. He is the Kurdistan coördinator of the Halabja Medical 
Institute, which was founded by Gosden, Michael Amitay, the 
executive director of the Washington Kurdish Institute, and a 
coalition of Kurdish doctors; for the doctors, it is an act of bravery 
to be publicly associated with a project whose scientific findings 
could be used as evidence if Saddam Hussein faced a war-crimes 
tribunal. Saddam's agents are everywhere in the Kurdish zone, and 
his tanks sit forty miles from Baban's office.
Soon after I arrived in Sulaimaniya, Baban and I headed out in his 
Toyota Camry for Halabja. On a rough road, we crossed the plains 
of Sharazoor, a region of black earth and honey-colored wheat 
ringed by jagged, snow-topped mountains. We were not travelling 
alone. The Mukhabarat, the Iraqi intelligence service, is widely 
reported to have placed a bounty on the heads of Western 
journalists caught in Kurdistan (either ten thousand dollars or 
twenty thousand dollars, depending on the source of the 
information). The areas around the border with Iran are filled with 
Tehran's spies, and members of Ansar al-Islam, an Islamist terror 
group, were said to be decapitating people in the Halabja area. So 
the Kurds had laid on a rather elaborate security detail. A Land 
Cruiser carrying peshmerga guerrillas led the way, and we were 
followed by another Land Cruiser, on whose bed was mounted an 
anti-aircraft weapon manned by six peshmerga, some of whom 
wore black balaclavas. We were just south of the American- and 
British-enforced no-fly zone. I had been told that, at the beginning 
of the safe-haven experiment, the Americans had warned 
Saddam's forces to stay away; a threat from the air, though 
unlikely, was, I deduced, not out of the question.
"It seems very important to know the immediate and long-term 
effects of chemical and biological weapons," Baban said, 
beginning my tutorial. "Here is a civilian population exposed to 
chemical and possibly biological weapons, and people are 
developing many varieties of cancers and congenital 
abnormalities. The Americans are vulnerable to these 
weapons”they are cheap, and terrorists possess them. So, after 
the anthrax attacks in the States, I think it is urgent for scientific 
research to be done here."
Experts now believe that Halabja and other places in Kurdistan 
were struck by a combination of mustard gas and nerve agents, 
including sarin (the agent used in the Tokyo subway attack) and 
VX, a potent nerve agent. Baban's suggestion that biological 
weapons may also have been used surprised me. One possible 
biological weapon that Baban mentioned was aflatoxin, which 
causes long-term liver damage.
A colleague of Baban's, a surgeon who practices in Dahuk, in 
northwestern Kurdistan, and who is a member of the Halabja 
Medical Institute team, told me more about the institute's survey, 
which was conducted in the Dahuk region in 1999. The surveyors 
began, he said, by asking elementary questions; eleven years after 
the attacks, they did not even know which villages had been 
attacked.
"The team went to almost every village," the surgeon said. "At 
first, we thought that the Dahuk governorate was the least 
affected. We knew of only two villages that were hit by the 
attacks. But we came up with twenty-nine in total. This is eleven 
years after the fact."
The surgeon is professorial in appearance, but he is deeply angry. 
He doubles as a pediatric surgeon, because there are no pediatric 
surgeons in Kurdistan. He has performed more than a hundred 
operations for cleft palate on children born since 1988. Most of 
the agents believed to have been dropped on Halabja have short 
half-lives, but, as Baban told me, "physicians are unsure how long 
these toxins will affect the population. How can we know agent 
half-life if we don't know the agent?" He added, "If we knew the 
toxins that were used, we could follow them and see actions on 
spermatogenesis and ovogenesis."
Increased rates of infertility, he said, are having a profound effect 
on Kurdish society, which places great importance on large 
families. "You have men divorcing their wives because they could 
not give birth, and then marrying again, and then their second 
wives can't give birth, either," he said. "Still, they don't blame 
their own problem with spermatogenesis."
Baban told me that the initial results of the Halabja Medical 
Institute-sponsored survey show abnormally high rates of many 
diseases. He said that he compared rates of colon cancer in 
Halabja with those in the city of Chamchamal, which was not 
attacked with chemical weapons. "We are seeing rates of colon 
cancer five times higher in Halabja than in Chamchamal," he said.
There are other anomalies as well, Baban said. The rate of 
miscarriage in Halabja, according to initial survey results, is 
fourteen times the rate of miscarriage in Chamchamal; rates of 
infertility among men and women in the affected population are 
many times higher than normal. "We're finding Hiroshima levels 
of sterility," he said.
Then, there is the suspicion about snakes. "Have you heard about 
the snakes?" he asked as we drove. I told him that I had heard 
rumors. "We don't know if a genetic mutation in the snakes has 
made them more toxic," Baban went on, "or if the birds that eat 
the snakes were killed off in the attacks, but there seem to be 
more snakebites, of greater toxicity, in Halabja now than before." 
(I asked Richard Spertzel, a scientist and a former member of the 
United Nations Special Commission inspections team, if this was 
possible. Yes, he said, but such a rise in snakebites was more 
likely due to "environmental imbalances" than to mutations.)
My conversation with Baban was suddenly interrupted by our 
guerrilla escorts, who stopped the car and asked me to join them 
in one of the Land Cruisers; we veered off across a wheat field, 
without explanation. I was later told that we had been passing a 
mountain area that had recently had problems with Islamic 
terrorists.
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We arrived in Halabja half an hour later. As you enter the city, 
you see a small statue modelled on the most famous photographic 
image of the Halabja massacre: an old man, prone and lifeless, 
shielding his dead grandson with his body.
A torpor seems to afflict Halabja; even its bazaar is listless and 
somewhat empty, in marked contrast to those of other Kurdish 
cities, which are well stocked with imported goods (history and 
circumstance have made the Kurds enthusiastic smugglers) and 
are full of noise and activity. "Everyone here is sick," a Halabja 
doctor told me. "The people who aren't sick are depressed." He 
practices at the Martyrs' Hospital, which is situated on the 
outskirts of the city. The hospital has no heat and little advanced 
equipment; like the city itself, it is in a dilapidated state.
The doctor is a thin, jumpy man in a tweed jacket, and he smokes 
without pause. He and Baban took me on a tour of the hospital. 
Afterward, we sat in a bare office, and a woman was wheeled in. 
She looked seventy but said that she was fifty; doctors told me she 
suffers from lung scarring so serious that only a lung transplant 
could help, but there are no transplant centers in Kurdistan. The 
woman, whose name is Jayran Muhammad, lost eight relatives 
during the attack. Her voice was almost inaudible. "I was 
disturbed psychologically for a long time," she told me as Baban 
translated. "I believed my children were alive." Baban told me that 
her lungs would fail soon, that she could barely breathe. "She is 
waiting to die," he said. I met another woman, Chia Hammassat, 
who was eight at the time of the attacks and has been blind ever 
since. Her mother, she said, died of colon cancer several years 
ago, and her brother suffers from chronic shortness of breath. 
"There is no hope to correct my vision," she said, her voice flat. "I 
was married, but I couldn't fulfill the responsibilities of a wife 
because I'm blind. My husband left me."
Baban said that in Halabja "there are more abnormal births than 
normal ones," and other Kurdish doctors told me that they 
regularly see children born with neural-tube defects and 
undescended testes and without anal openings. They are 
seeing”and they showed me”children born with six or seven 
toes on each foot, children whose fingers and toes are fused, and 
children who suffer from leukemia and liver cancer.
I met Sarkar, a shy and intelligent boy with a harelip, a cleft 
palate, and a growth on his spine. Sarkar had a brother born with 
the same set of malformations, the doctor told me, but the brother 
choked to death, while still a baby, on a grain of rice.
Meanwhile, more victims had gathered in the hallway; the people 
of Halabja do not often have a chance to tell their stories to 
foreigners. Some of them wanted to know if I was a surgeon, who 
had come to repair their children's deformities, and they were 
disappointed to learn that I was a journalist. The doctor and I soon 
left the hospital for a walk through the northern neighborhoods of 
Halabja, which were hardest hit in the attack. We were trailed by 
peshmerga carrying AK-47s. The doctor smoked as we talked, and 
I teased him about his habit. "Smoking has some good effect on 
the lungs," he said, without irony. "In the attacks, there was less 
effect on smokers. Their lungs were better equipped for the 
mustard gas, maybe."
We walked through the alleyways of the Jewish quarter, past a 
former synagogue in which eighty or so Halabjans died during the 
attack. Underfed cows wandered the paths. The doctor showed me 
several cellars where clusters of people had died. We knocked on 
the gate of one house, and were let in by an old woman with a 
wide smile and few teeth. In the Kurdish tradition, she 
immediately invited us for lunch.
She told us the recent history of the house. "Everyone who was in 
this house died," she said. "The whole family. We heard there 
were one hundred people." She led us to the cellar, which was 
damp and close. Rusted yellow cans of vegetable ghee littered the 
floor. The room seemed too small to hold a hundred people, but 
the doctor said that the estimate sounded accurate. I asked him if 
cellars like this one had ever been decontaminated. He smiled. 
"Nothing in Kurdistan has been decontaminated," he said.
4. AL”ANFAL 
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The chemical attacks on Halabja and Goktapa and perhaps two 
hundred other villages and towns were only a small part of the 
cataclysm that Saddam's cousin, the man known as Ali Chemical, 
arranged for the Kurds. The Kurds say that about two hundred 
thousand were killed. (Human Rights Watch, which in the early 
nineties published "Iraq's Crime of Genocide," a definitive study 
of the attacks, gives a figure of between fifty thousand and a 
hundred thousand.)
The campaign against the Kurds was dubbed al-Anfal by Saddam, 
after a chapter in the Koran that allows conquering Muslim armies 
to seize the spoils of their foes. It reads, in part, "Against 
them"”your enemies”"make ready your strength to the utmost 
of your power, including steeds of war, to strike terror into the 
hearts of the enemies of Allah and your enemies, and others 
besides, whom ye may not know, but whom Allah doth know. 
Whatever ye shall spend in the cause of Allah, shall be repaid 
unto you, and ye shall not be treated unjustly."
The Anfal campaign was not an end in itself, like the Holocaust, 
but a means to an end”an instance of a policy that Samantha 
Power, who runs the Carr Center for Human Rights, at Harvard, 
calls "instrumental genocide." Power has just published " 'A 
Problem from Hell,' " a study of American responses to genocide. 
"There are regimes that set out to murder every citizen of a race," 
she said. "Saddam achieved what he had to do without 
exterminating every last Kurd." What he had to do, Power and 
others say, was to break the Kurds' morale and convince them that 
a desire for independence was foolish.
Most of the Kurds who were murdered in the Anfal were not 
killed by poison gas; rather, the genocide was carried out, in large 
part, in the traditional manner, with roundups at night, mass 
executions, and anonymous burials. The bodies of most of the 
victims of the Anfal”mainly men and boys”have never been 
found.
One day, I met one of the thousands of Kurdish women known as 
Anfal widows: Salma Aziz Baban. She lives outside Chamchamal, 
in a settlement made up almost entirely of displaced families, in 
cinder-block houses. Her house was nearly empty”no furniture, 
no heat, just a ragged carpet. We sat on the carpet as she told me 
about her family. She comes from the Kirkuk region, and in 1987 
her village was uprooted by the Army, and the inhabitants, with 
thousands of other Kurds, were forced into a collective town. 
Then, one night in April of 1988, soldiers went into the village 
and seized the men and older boys. Baban's husband and her three 
oldest sons were put on trucks. The mothers of the village began 
to plead with the soldiers. "We were screaming, 'Do what you 
want to us, do what you want!' " Baban told me. "They were so 
scared, my sons. My sons were crying." She tried to bring them 
coats for the journey. "It was raining. I wanted them to have coats. 
I begged the soldiers to let me give them bread. They took them 
without coats." Baban remembered that a high-ranking Iraqi 
officer named Bareq orchestrated the separation; according to 
"Iraq's Crime of Genocide," the Human Rights Watch report, the 
man in charge of this phase was a brigadier general named Bareq 
Abdullah al-Haj Hunta.
After the men were taken away, the women and children were 
herded onto trucks. They were given little water or food, and were 
crammed so tightly into the vehicles that they had to defecate 
where they stood. Baban, her three daughters, and her six-year-old 
son were taken to the Topzawa Army base and then to the prison 
of Nugra Salman, the Pit of Salman, which Human Rights Watch 
in 1995 described this way: "It was an old building, dating back to 
the days of the Iraqi monarchy and perhaps earlier. It had been 
abandoned for years, used by Arab nomads to shelter their herds. 
The bare walls were scrawled with the diaries of political 
prisoners. On the door of one cell, a guard had daubed 'Khomeini 
eats shit.' Over the main gate, someone else had written, 
'Welcome to Hell.' "
"We arrived at midnight," Baban told me. "They put us in a very 
big room, with more than two thousand people, women and 
children, and they closed the door. Then the starvation started."
The prisoners were given almost nothing to eat, and a single 
standpipe spat out brackish water for drinking. People began to 
die from hunger and illness. When someone died, the Iraqi guards 
would demand that the body be passed through a window in the 
main door. "The bodies couldn't stay in the hall," Baban told me. 
In the first days at Nugra Salman, "thirty people died, maybe 
more." Her six-year-old son, Rebwar, fell ill. "He had diarrhea," 
she said. "He was very sick. He knew he was dying. There was no 
medicine or doctor. He started to cry so much." Baban's son died 
on her lap. "I was screaming and crying," she said. "My daughters 
were crying. We gave them the body. It was passed outside, and 
the soldiers took it."
Soon after Baban's son died, she pulled herself up and went to the 
window, to see if the soldiers had taken her son to be buried. 
"There were twenty dogs outside the prison. A big black dog was 
the leader," she said. The soldiers had dumped the bodies of the 
dead outside the prison, in a field. "I looked outside and saw the 
legs and hands of my son in the mouths of the dogs. The dogs 
were eating my son." She stopped talking for a moment. "Then I 
lost my mind."
She described herself as catatonic; her daughters scraped around 
for food and water. They kept her alive, she said, until she could 
function again. "This was during Ramadan. We were kept in 
Nugra Salman for a few more months."
In September, when the war with Iran was over, Saddam issued a 
general amnesty to the Kurds, the people he believed had betrayed 
him by siding with Tehran. The women, children, and elderly in 
Nugra Salman were freed. But, in most cases, they could not go 
home; the Iraqi Army had bulldozed some four thousand villages, 
Baban's among them. She was finally resettled in the Chamchamal 
district.
In the days after her release, she tried to learn the fate of her 
husband and three older sons. But the men who disappeared in the 
Anfal roundups have never been found. It is said that they were 
killed and then buried in mass graves in the desert along the 
Kuwaiti border, but little is actually known. A great number of 
Anfal widows, I was told, still believe that their sons and 
husbands and brothers are locked away in Saddam's jails. "We are 
thinking they are alive," Baban said, referring to her husband and 
sons. "Twenty-four hours a day, we are thinking maybe they are 
alive. If they are alive, they are being tortured, I know it."
Baban said that she has not slept well since her sons were taken 
from her. "We are thinking, Please let us know they are dead, I 
will sleep in peace," she said. "My head is filled with terrible 
thoughts. The day I die is the day I will not remember that the 
dogs ate my son."
Before I left, Baban asked me to write down the names of her 
three older sons. They are Sherzad, who would be forty now; 
Rizgar, who would be thirty-one; and Muhammad, who would be 
thirty. She asked me to find her sons, or to ask President Bush to 
find them. "One would be sufficient," she said. "If just one comes 
back, that would be enough."
5. WHAT THE KURDS FEAR 
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In a conversation not long ago with Richard Butler, the former 
weapons inspector, I suggested a possible explanation for the 
world's indifference to Saddam Hussein's use of chemical 
weapons to commit genocide”that the people he had killed were 
his own citizens, not those of another sovereign state. (The main 
chemical-weapons treaty does not ban a country's use of such 
weapons against its own people, perhaps because at the time the 
convention was drafted no one could imagine such a thing.) Butler 
reminded me, however, that Iraq had used chemical weapons 
against another country”Iran”during the eight-year Iran-Iraq 
War. He offered a simpler rationale. "The problems are just too 
awful and too hard," he said. "History is replete with such things. 
Go back to the grand example of the Holocaust. It sounded too 
hard to do anything about it."
The Kurds have grown sanguine about the world's lack of interest. 
"I've learned not to be surprised by the indifference of the 
civilized world," Barham Salih told me one evening in 
Sulaimaniya. Salih is the Prime Minister of the area of Kurdistan 
administered by the Patriotic Union, and he spoke in such a way 
as to suggest that it would be best if I, too, stopped acting 
surprised. "Given the scale of the tragedy”we're talking about 
large numbers of victims”I suppose I'm surprised that the 
international community has not come in to help the survivors," 
he continued. "It's politically indecent not to help. But, as a Kurd, 
I live with the terrible hand history and geography have dealt my 
people."
Salih's home is not prime ministerial, but it has many Western 
comforts. He had a satellite television and a satellite telephone, 
yet the house was frigid; in a land of cheap oil, the Kurds, who are 
cut off the Iraqi electric grid by Saddam on a regular basis, 
survive on generator power and kerosene heat.
Over dinner one night, Salih argued that the Kurds should not be 
regarded with pity. "I don't think one has to tap into the Wilsonian 
streak in American foreign policy in order to find a rationale for 
helping the Kurds," he said. "Helping the Kurds would mean an 
opportunity to study the problems caused by weapons of mass 
destruction."
Salih, who is forty-one, often speaks bluntly, and is savvy about 
Washington's enduring interest in ending the reign of Saddam 
Hussein. Unwilling publicly to exhort the United States to take 
military action, Salih is aware that the peshmerga would be 
obvious allies of an American military strike against Iraq; other 
Kurds have been making that argument for years. It is not often 
noted in Washington policy circles, but the Kurds already hold a 
vast swath of territory inside the country”including two 
important dams whose destruction could flood Baghdad”and 
have at least seventy thousand men under arms. In addition, the 
two main Kurdish parties are members of the Iraqi opposition 
group, the Iraqi National Congress, which is headed by Ahmad 
Chalabi, a London-based Shiite businessman; at the moment, 
though, relations between Chalabi and the Kurdish leaders are 
contentious.
Kurds I talked to throughout Kurdistan were enthusiastic about the 
idea of joining an American-led alliance against Saddam Hussein, 
and serving as the northern-Iraqi equivalent of Afghanistan's 
Northern Alliance. President Bush's State of the Union Message, 
in which he denounced Iraq as the linchpin of an "axis of evil," 
had had an electric effect on every Kurd I met who heard the 
speech. In the same speech, President Bush made reference to 
Iraq's murder of "thousands of its own citizens”leaving the 
bodies of mothers huddled over their dead children." General 
Simko Dizayee, the chief of staff of the peshmerga, told me, 
"Bush's speech filled our hearts with hope."
Prime Minister Salih expressed his views diplomatically. "We 
support democratic transformation in Iraq," he said” half 
smiling, because he knows that there is no chance of that 
occurring unless Saddam is removed. But until America commits 
itself to removing Saddam, he said, "we're living on the razor's 
edge. Before Washington even wakes up in the morning, we could 
have ten thousand dead." This is the Kurdish conundrum: the Iraqi 
military is weaker than the American military, but the Iraqis are 
stronger than the Kurds. Seven hundred Iraqi tanks face the 
Kurdish safe haven, according to peshmerga commanders.
General Mustafa Said Qadir, the peshmerga leader, put it this 
way: "We have a problem. If the Americans attack Saddam and 
don't get him, we're going to get gassed. If the Americans decided 
to do it, we would be thankful. This is the Kurdish dream. But it 
has to be done carefully."
The Kurdish leadership worries, in short, that an American 
mistake could cost the Kurds what they have created, however 
inadvertently: a nearly independent state for themselves in 
northern Iraq. "We would like to be our own nation," Salih told 
me. "But we are realists. All we want is to be partners of the 
Arabs of Iraq in building a secular, democratic, federal country." 
Later, he added, "We are proud of ourselves. We have inherited a 
devastated country. It's not easy what we are trying to achieve. We 
had no democratic institutions, we didn't have a legal culture, we 
did not have a strong military. From that situation, this is a 
remarkable success story."
{PRIVATE "TYPE=PICT;ALT="}
The Kurdish regional government, to be sure, is not a Vermont 
town meeting. The leaders of the two parties, Massoud Barzani 
and Jalal Talabani, are safe in their jobs. But there is a free press 
here, and separation of mosque and state, and schools are being 
built and pensions are being paid. In Erbil and in Sulaimaniya, the 
Kurds have built playgrounds on the ruins of Iraqi Army torture 
centers. "If America is indeed looking for Muslims who are eager 
to become democratic and are eager to counter the effects of 
Islamic fundamentalism, then it should be looking here," Salih 
said.
Massoud Barzani is the son of the late Mustafa Barzani, a 
legendary guerrilla, who built the Democratic Party, and who 
entered into the ill-fated alliance with Iran and America. I met 
Barzani in his headquarters, above the town of Salahuddin. He is a 
short man, pale and quiet; he wore the red turban of the Barzani 
clan and a wide cummerbund across his baggy trousers”the outfit 
of a peshmerga.
Like Salih, he chooses his words carefully when talking about the 
possibility of helping America bring down Saddam. "It is not 
enough to tell us the U.S. will respond at a certain time and place 
of its choosing," Barzani said. "We're in artillery range. Iraq's 
Army is weak, but it is still strong enough to crush us. We don't 
make assumptions about the American response."
One day, I drove to the Kurdish front lines near Erbil, to see the 
forward positions of the Iraqi Army. The border between the 
Army-controlled territory and the Kurdish region is porous; 
Baghdad allows some Kurds”nonpolitical Kurds”to travel back 
and forth between zones.
My peshmerga escort took me to the roof of a building 
overlooking the Kalak Bridge and, beyond it, the Iraqi lines. 
Without binoculars, we could see Iraqi tanks on the hills in front 
of us. A local official named Muhammad Najar joined us; he told 
me that the Iraqi forces arrayed there were elements of the Army's 
Jerusalem brigade, a reserve unit established by Saddam with the 
stated purpose of liberating Jerusalem from the Israelis. Other 
peshmerga joined us. It was a brilliantly sunny day, and we were 
enjoying the weather. A man named Aziz Khader, gazing at the 
plain before us, said, "When I look across here, I imagine 
American tanks coming down across this plain going to Baghdad." 
His friends smiled and said, "Inshallah"”God willing. Another 
man said, "The U.S. is the lord of the world."
6. THE PRISONERS 
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A week later, I was at Shinwe, a mountain range outside Halabja, 
with another group of peshmerga. My escorts and I had driven 
most of the way up, and then slogged through fresh snow. From 
one peak, we could see the village of Biyara, which sits in a valley 
between Halabja and a wall of mountains that mark the Iranian 
border. Saddam's tanks were an hour's drive away to the south, 
and Iran filled the vista before us. Biyara and nine other villages 
near it are occupied by the terrorist group Ansar al-Islam, or 
Supporters of Islam. Shinwe, in fact, might be called the axis of 
the axis of evil.
We were close enough to see trucks belonging to Ansar al-Islam 
making their way from village to village. The commander of the 
peshmerga forces surrounding Biyara, a veteran guerrilla named 
Ramadan Dekone, said that Ansar al-Islam is made up of Kurdish 
Islamists and an unknown number of so-called Arab 
Afghans”Arabs, from southern Iraq and elsewhere, who trained 
in the camps of Al Qaeda.
"They believe that people must be terrorized," Dekone said, 
shaking his head. "They believe that the Koran says this is 
permissible." He pointed to an abandoned village in the middle 
distance, a place called Kheli Hama. "That is where the massacre 
took place," he said. In late September, forty-two of his men were 
killed by Ansar al-Islam, and now Dekone and his forces seemed 
ready for revenge. I asked him what he would do if he captured 
the men responsible for the killing.
"I would take them to court," he said.
When I got to Sulaimaniya, I visited a prison run by the 
intelligence service of the Patriotic Union. The prison is attached 
to the intelligence-service headquarters. It appears to be well kept 
and humane; the communal cells hold twenty or so men each, and 
they have kerosene heat, and even satellite television. For two 
days, the intelligence agency permitted me to speak with any 
prisoner who agreed to be interviewed. I was wary; the Kurds 
have an obvious interest in lining up on the American side in the 
war against terror. But the officials did not, as far as I know, 
compel anyone to speak to me, and I did not get the sense that 
allegations made by prisoners were shaped by their captors. The 
stories, which I later checked with experts on the region, seemed 
at least worth the attention of America and other countries in the 
West.
The allegations include charges that Ansar al-Islam has received 
funds directly from Al Qaeda; that the intelligence service of 
Saddam Hussein has joint control, with Al Qaeda operatives, over 
Ansar al-Islam; that Saddam Hussein hosted a senior leader of Al 
Qaeda in Baghdad in 1992; that a number of Al Qaeda members 
fleeing Afghanistan have been secretly brought into territory 
controlled by Ansar al-Islam; and that Iraqi intelligence agents 
smuggled conventional weapons, and possibly even chemical and 
biological weapons, into Afghanistan. If these charges are true, it 
would mean that the relationship between Saddam's regime and 
Al Qaeda is far closer than previously thought.
When I asked the director of the twenty-four-hundred-man 
Patriotic Union intelligence service why he was allowing me to 
interview his prisoners, he told me that he hoped I would carry 
this information to American intelligence officials. "The F.B.I. 
and the C.I.A. haven't come out yet," he told me. His deputy 
added, "Americans are going to Somalia, the Philippines, I don't 
know where else, to look for terrorists. But this is the field, here." 
Anya Guilsher, a spokeswoman for the C.I.A., told me last week 
that as a matter of policy the agency would not comment on the 
activities of its officers. James Woolsey, a former C.I.A. director 
and an advocate of overthrowing the Iraqi regime, said, "It would 
be a real shame if the C.I.A.'s substantial institutional hostility to 
Iraqi democratic resistance groups was keeping it from learning 
about Saddam's ties to Al Qaeda in northern Iraq."
The possibility that Saddam could supply weapons of mass 
destruction to anti-American terror groups is a powerful argument 
among advocates of "regime change," as the removal of Saddam is 
known in Washington. These critics of Saddam argue that his 
chemical and biological capabilities, his record of support for 
terrorist organizations, and the cruelty of his regime make him a 
threat that reaches far beyond the citizens of Iraq.
"He's the home address for anyone wanting to make or use 
chemical or biological weapons," Kanan Makiya, an Iraqi 
dissident, said. Makiya is the author of "Republic of Fear," a study 
of Saddam's regime. "He's going to be the person to worry about. 
He's got the labs and the know-how. He's hellbent on trying to find 
a way into the fight, without announcing it."
On the surface, a marriage of Saddam's secular Baath Party 
regime with the fundamentalist Al Qaeda seems unlikely. His 
relationship with secular Palestinian groups is well known; both 
Abu Nidal and Abul Abbas, two prominent Palestinian terrorists, 
are currently believed to be in Baghdad. But about ten years ago 
Saddam underwent something of a battlefield conversion to a 
fundamentalist brand of Islam.
"It was gradual, starting the moment he decided on the invasion of 
Kuwait," in June of 1990, according to Amatzia Baram, an Iraq 
expert at the University of Haifa. "His calculation was that he 
needed people in Iraq and the Arab world”as well as God”to be 
on his side when he invaded. After he invaded, the Islamic 
rhetorical style became overwhelming"”so overwhelming, 
Baram continued, that a radical group in Jordan began calling 
Saddam "the New Caliph Marching from the East." This 
conversion, cynical though it may be, has opened doors to Saddam 
in the fundamentalist world. He is now a prime supporter of the 
Palestinian Islamic Jihad and of Hamas, paying families of suicide 
bombers ten thousand dollars in exchange for their sons' 
martyrdom. This is part of Saddam's attempt to harness the power 
of Islamic extremism and direct it against his enemies.
Kurdish culture, on the other hand, has traditionally been immune 
to religious extremism. According to Kurdish officials, Ansar al-
Islam grew out of an idea spread by Ayman al-Zawahiri, the 
former chief of the Egyptian Islamic Jihad and now Osama bin 
Laden's deputy in Al Qaeda. "There are two schools of thought" in 
Al Qaeda, Karim Sinjari, the Interior Minister of Kurdistan's 
Democratic Party-controlled region, told me. "Osama bin Laden 
believes that the infidels should be beaten in the head, meaning 
the United States. Zawahiri's philosophy is that you should fight 
the infidel even in the smallest village, that you should try to form 
Islamic armies everywhere. The Kurdish fundamentalists were 
influenced by Zawahiri."
Kurds were among those who travelled to Afghanistan from all 
over the Muslim world, first to fight the Soviets, in the early 
nineteen-eighties, then to join Al Qaeda. The members of the 
groups that eventually became Ansar al-Islam spent a great deal of 
time in Afghanistan, according to Kurdish intelligence officials. 
One Kurd who went to Afghanistan was Mala Krekar, an early 
leader of the Islamist movement in Kurdistan; according to 
Sinjari, he now holds the title of "emir" of Ansar al-Islam.
In 1998, the first force of Islamist terrorists crossed the Iranian 
border into Kurdistan, and immediately tried to seize the town of 
Haj Omran. Kurdish officials said that the terrorists were helped 
by Iran, which also has an interest in undermining a secular 
Muslim government. "The terrorists blocked the road, they killed 
Kurdish Democratic Party cadres, they threatened the villagers," 
Sinjari said. "We fought them and they fled."
The terrorist groups splintered repeatedly. According to a report in 
the Arabic newspaper Al-Sharq al-Awsat, which is published in 
London, Ansar al-Islam came into being, on September 1st of last 
year, with the merger of two factions: Al Tawhid, which helped to 
arrange the assassination of Kurdistan's most prominent Christian 
politician, and whose operatives initiated an acid-throwing 
campaign against unveiled women; and a faction called the 
Second Soran Unit, which had been affiliated with one of the 
Kurdish Islamic parties. In a statement issued to mark the merger, 
the group, which originally called itself Jund al-Islam, or Soldiers 
of Islam, declared its intention to "undertake jihad in this region" 
in order to carry out "God's will." According to Kurdish officials, 
the group had between five hundred and six hundred members, 
including Arab Afghans and at least thirty Iraqi Kurds who were 
trained in Afghanistan.
Kurdish officials say that the merger took place in a ceremony 
overseen by three Arabs trained in bin Laden's camps in 
Afghanistan, and that these men supplied Ansar al-Islam with 
three hundred thousand dollars in seed money. Soon after the 
merger, a unit of Ansar al-Islam called the Victory Squad attacked 
and killed the peshmerga in Kheli Hama.
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Among the Islamic fighters who were there that day was Rekut 
Hiwa Hussein, a slender, boyish twenty-year-old who was 
captured by the peshmerga after the massacre, and whom I met in 
the prison in Sulaimaniya. He was exceedingly shy, never looking 
up from his hands as he spoke. He was not handcuffed, and had no 
marks on the visible parts of his body. We were seated in an 
investigator's office inside the intelligence complex. Like most 
buildings in Sulaimaniya, this one was warmed by a single 
kerosene heater, and the room temperature seemed barely above 
freezing. Rekut told me how he and his comrades in Ansar al-
Islam overcame the peshmerga.
"They thought there was a ceasefire, so we came into the village 
and fired on them by surprise," he said. "They didn't know what 
happened. We used grenades and machine guns. We killed a lot of 
them and then the others surrendered." The terrorists trussed their 
prisoners, ignoring pleas from the few civilians remaining in the 
town to leave them alone. "The villagers asked us not to slaughter 
them," Rekut said. One of the leaders of Ansar al-Islam, a man 
named Abdullah al-Shafi, became incensed. "He said, 'Who is 
saying this? Let me kill them.' "
Rekut said that the peshmerga were killed in ritual fashion: "We 
put cloths in their mouths. We then laid them down like sheep, in 
a line. Then we cut their throats." After the men were killed, 
peshmerga commanders say, the corpses were beheaded. Rekut 
denied this. "Some of their heads had been blown off by grenades, 
but we didn't behead them," he said.
I asked Rekut why he had joined Ansar al-Islam. "A friend of 
mine joined," he said quietly. "I don't have a good reason why I 
joined." A guard then took him by the elbow and returned him to 
his cell.
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The Kurdish intelligence officials I spoke to were careful not to 
oversell their case; they said that they have no proof that Ansar al-
Islam was ever involved in international terrorism or that 
Saddam's agents were involved in the attacks on the World Trade 
Center and the Pentagon. But they do have proof, they said, that 
Ansar al-Islam is shielding Al Qaeda members, and that it is doing 
so with the approval of Saddam's agents.
Kurdish officials said that, according to their intelligence, several 
men associated with Al Qaeda have been smuggled over the 
Iranian border into an Ansar al-Islam stronghold near Halabja. 
The Kurds believe that two of them, who go by the names Abu 
Yasir and Abu Muzaham, are high-ranking Al Qaeda members. 
"We don't have any information about them," one official told me. 
"We know that they don't want anybody to see them. They are 
sleeping in the same room as Mala Krekar and Abdullah al-
Shafi"”the nominal leaders of Ansar al-Islam.
The real leader, these officials say, is an Iraqi who goes by the 
name Abu Wa'el, and who, like the others, spent a great deal of 
time in bin Laden's training camps. But he is also, they say, a 
high-ranking officer of the Mukhabarat. One senior official added, 
"A man named Abu Agab is in charge of the northern bureau of 
the Mukhabarat. And he is Abu Wa'el's control officer."
Abu Agab, the official said, is based in the city of Kirkuk, which 
is predominantly Kurdish but is under the control of Baghdad. 
According to intelligence officials, Abu Agab and Abu Wa'el met 
last July 7th, in Germany. From there, they say, Abu Wa'el 
travelled to Afghanistan and then, in August, to Kurdistan, 
sneaking across the Iranian border.
The Kurdish officials told me that they learned a lot about Abu 
Wa'el's movements from one of their prisoners, an Iraqi 
intelligence officer named Qassem Hussein Muhammad, and they 
invited me to speak with him. Qassem, the Kurds said, is a Shiite 
from Basra, in southern Iraq, and a twenty-year veteran of Iraqi 
intelligence.
Qassem, shambling and bearded, was brought into the room, and 
he genially agreed to be interviewed. One guard stayed in the 
room, along with my translator. Qassem lit a cigarette, and leaned 
back in his chair. I started by asking him if he had been tortured 
by his captors. His eyes widened. "By God, no," he said. "There is 
nothing like torture here." Then he told me that his involvement in 
Islamic radicalism began in 1992 in Baghdad, when he met 
Ayman al-Zawahiri.
Qassem said that he was one of seventeen bodyguards assigned to 
protect Zawahiri, who stayed at Baghdad's Al Rashid Hotel, but 
who, he said, moved around surreptitiously. The guards had no 
idea why Zawahiri was in Baghdad, but one day Qassem escorted 
him to one of Saddam's palaces for what he later learned was a 
meeting with Saddam himself.
Qassem's capture by the Kurds grew out of his last assignment 
from the Mukhabarat. The Iraqi intelligence service received word 
that Abu Wa'el had been captured by American agents. "I was sent 
by the Mukhabarat to Kurdistan to find Abu Wa'el or, at least, 
information about him," Qassem told me. "That's when I was 
captured, before I reached Biyara."
I asked him if he was sure that Abu Wa'el was on Saddam's side. 
"He's an employee of the Mukhabarat," Qassem said. "He's the 
actual decision-maker in the group"”Ansar al-Islam”"but he's 
an employee of the Mukhabarat." According to the Kurdish 
intelligence officials, Abu Wa'el is not in American hands; rather, 
he is still with Ansar al-Islam. American officials declined to 
comment.
The Kurdish intelligence officials told me that they have Al Qaeda 
members in custody, and they introduced me to another prisoner, 
a young Iraqi Arab named Haqi Ismail, whom they described as a 
middle- to high-ranking member of Al Qaeda. He was, they said, 
captured by the peshmerga as he tried to get into Kurdistan three 
weeks after the start of the American attack on Afghanistan. 
Ismail, they said, comes from a Mosul family with deep 
connections to the Mukhabarat; his uncle is the top Mukhabarat 
official in the south of Iraq. They said they believe that Haqi 
Ismail is a liaison between Saddam's intelligence service and Al 
Qaeda.
Ismail wore slippers and a blanket around his shoulders. He was 
ascetic in appearance and, at the same time, ostentatiously smug. 
He appeared to be amused by the presence of an American. He 
told the investigators that he would not talk to the C.I.A. The 
Kurdish investigators laughed and said they wished that I were 
from the C.I.A.
Ismail said that he was once a student at the University of Mosul 
but grew tired of life in Iraq under Saddam Hussein. Luckily, he 
said, in 1999 he met an Afghan man who persuaded him to seek 
work in Afghanistan. The Kurdish investigators smiled as Ismail 
went on to say that he found himself in Kandahar, then in Kabul, 
and then somehow”here he was exceedingly vague”in an Al 
Qaeda camp. When I asked him how enrollment in an Al Qaeda 
camp squared with his wish to seek work in Afghanistan, he 
replied, "Being a soldier is a job." After his training, he said, he 
took a post in the Taliban Foreign Ministry. I asked him if he was 
an employee of Saddam's intelligence service. "I prefer not to talk 
about that," he replied.
Later, I asked the Kurdish officials if they believed that Saddam 
provides aid to Al Qaeda-affiliated terror groups or simply 
maintains channels of communication with them. It was getting 
late, and the room was growing even colder. "Come back 
tomorrow," the senior official in the room said, "and we'll 
introduce you to someone who will answer that question."
7. THE AL QAEDA LINK 
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The man they introduced me to the next afternoon was a twenty-
nine-year-old Iranian Arab, a smuggler and bandit from the city of 
Ahvaz. The intelligence officials told me that his most recent 
employer was bin Laden. When they arrested him, last year, they 
said, they found a roll of film in his possession. They had the film 
developed, and the photographs, which they showed me, depicted 
their prisoner murdering a man with a knife, slicing his ear off and 
then plunging the knife into the top of the man's head.
The Iranian had a thin face, thick black hair, and a mustache; he 
wore an army jacket, sandals, and Western-style sweatpants. 
Speaking in an almost casual tone, he told me that he was born in 
1973, that his real name was Muhammad Mansour Shahab, and 
that he had been a smuggler most of his adult life.
"I met a group of drug traffickers," he said. "They gave us drugs 
and we got them weapons," which they took from Iran into 
Afghanistan. In 1996, he met an Arab Afghan. "His name was 
Othman," the man went on. "He gave me drugs, and I got him a 
hundred and fifty Kalashnikovs. Then he said to me, 'You should 
come visit Afghanistan.' So we went to Afghanistan in 1996. We 
stayed for a while, I came back, did a lot of smuggling jobs. My 
brother-in-law tried to send weapons to Afghanistan, but the 
Iranians ambushed us. I killed some of the Iranians."
He soon returned with Othman to Afghanistan, where, he said, 
Othman gave him the name Muhammad Jawad to use while he 
was there. "Othman said to me, 'You will meet Sheikh Osama 
soon.' We were in Kandahar. One night, they gave me a sleeping 
pill. We got into a car and we drove for an hour and a half into the 
mountains. We went to a tent they said was Osama's tent." The 
man now called Jawad did not meet Osama bin Laden that night. 
"They said to me, 'You're the guy who killed the Iranian officer.' 
Then they said they needed information about me, my real name. 
They told Othman to take me back to Kandahar and hold me in 
jail for twenty-one days while they investigated me."
The Al Qaeda men completed their investigation and called him 
back to the mountains. "They told me that Osama said I should 
work with them," Jawad said. "They told me to bring my wife to 
Afghanistan." They made him swear on a Koran that he would 
never betray them. Jawad said that he became one of Al Qaeda's 
principal weapons smugglers. Iraqi opposition sources told me 
that the Baghdad regime frequently smuggled weapons to Al 
Qaeda by air through Dubai to Pakistan and then overland into 
Afghanistan. But Jawad told me that the Iraqis often used land 
routes through Iran as well. Othman ordered him to establish a 
smuggling route across the Iraq-Iran border. The smugglers would 
pose as shepherds to find the best routes. "We started to go into 
Iraq with the sheep and cows," Jawad told me, and added that they 
initiated this route by smuggling tape recorders from Iraq to Iran. 
They opened a store, a front, in Ahvaz, to sell electronics, "just to 
establish relationships with smugglers."
One day in 1999, Othman got a message to Jawad, who was then 
in Iran. He was to smuggle himself across the Iraqi border at Fao, 
where a car would meet him and take him to a village near Tikrit, 
the headquarters of Saddam Hussein's clan. Jawad was then taken 
to a meeting at the house of a man called Luay, whom he 
described as the son of Saddam's father-in-law, Khayr Allah 
Talfah. (Professor Baram, who has long followed Saddam's 
family, later told me he believes that Luay, who is about forty 
years old, is close to Saddam's inner circle.) At the meeting, with 
Othman present, Mukhabarat officials instructed Jawad to go to 
Baghdad, where he was to retrieve several cannisters filled with 
explosives. Then, he said, he was to arrange to smuggle the 
explosives into Iran, where they would be used to kill anti-Iraqi 
activists. After this assignment was completed, Jawad said, he was 
given a thousand Kalashnikov rifles by Iraqi intelligence and told 
to smuggle them into Afghanistan.
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A year later, there was a new development: Othman told Jawad to 
smuggle several dozen refrigerator motors into Afghanistan for 
the Iraqi Mukhabarat; a cannister filled with liquid was attached 
to each motor. Jawad said that he asked Othman for more 
information. "I said, 'Othman, what does this contain?' He said, 
'My life and your life.' He said they"”the Iraqi agents”"were 
going to kill us if we didn't do this. That's all I'll say.
"I was given a book of dollars," Jawad went on, meaning ten 
thousand dollars”a hundred American hundred-dollar bills. "I 
was told to arrange to smuggle the motors. Othman told me to kill 
any of the smugglers who helped us once we got there." Vehicles 
belonging to the Taliban were waiting at the border, and Jawad 
said that he turned over the liquid-filled refrigerator motors to the 
Taliban, and then killed the smugglers who had helped him.
Jawad said that he had no idea what liquid was inside the motors, 
but he assumed that it was some type of chemical or biological 
weapon. I asked the Kurdish officials who remained in the room if 
they believed that, as late as 2000, the Mukhabarat was 
transferring chemical or biological weapons to Al Qaeda. They 
spoke carefully. "We have no idea what was in the cannisters," the 
senior official said. "This is something that is worth an American 
investigation."
When I asked Jawad to tell me why he worked for Al Qaeda, he 
replied, "Money." He would not say how much money he had 
been paid, but he suggested that it was quite a bit. I had one more 
question: How many years has Al Qaeda maintained a relationship 
with Saddam Hussein's regime? "There's been a relationship 
between the Mukhabarat and the people of Al Qaeda since 1992," 
he replied.
Carole O'Leary, a Middle Eastern expert at American University, 
in Washington, and a specialist on the Kurds, said it is likely that 
Saddam would seek an alliance with Islamic terrorists to serve his 
own interests. "I know that there are Mukhabarat agents 
throughout Kurdistan," O'Leary said, and went on, "One way the 
Mukhabarat could destabilize the Kurdish experiment in 
democracy is to link up with Islamic radical groups. Their 
interests dovetail completely. They both have much to fear from 
the democratic, secular experiment of the Kurds in the safe haven, 
and they both obviously share a hatred for America."
8. THE PRESENT DANGER 
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A paradox of life in northern Iraq is that, while hundreds, perhaps 
thousands, of children suffer from the effects of chemical attacks, 
the child-mortality rate in the Kurdish zone has improved over the 
past ten years. Prime Minister Salih credits this to, of all things, 
sanctions placed on the Iraqi regime by the United Nations after 
the Gulf War because of Iraq's refusal to dismantle its 
nonconventional-weapons program. He credits in particular the 
program begun in 1997, known as oil-for-food, which was meant 
to mitigate the effects of sanctions on civilians by allowing the 
profits from Iraqi oil sales to buy food and medicine. Calling this 
program a "fantastic concept," Salih said, "For the first time in our 
history, Iraqi citizens”all citizens”are insured a portion of the 
country's oil wealth. The north is a testament to the success of the 
program. Oil is sold and food is bought."
I asked Salih to respond to the criticism, widely aired in the West, 
that the sanctions have led to the death of thousands of children. 
"Sanctions don't kill Iraqi children," he said. "The regime kills 
children."
This puzzled me. If it was true, then why were the victims of the 
gas attacks still suffering from a lack of health care? Across 
Kurdistan, in every hospital I visited, the complaints were the 
same: no CT scans, no MRIs, no pediatric surgery, no advanced 
diagnostic equipment, not even surgical gloves. I asked Salih why 
the money designated by the U.N. for the Kurds wasn't being used 
for advanced medical treatment. The oil-for-food program has one 
enormous flaw, he replied. When the program was introduced, the 
Kurds were promised thirteen per cent of the country's oil 
revenue, but because of the terms of the agreement between 
Baghdad and the U.N.”a "defect," Salih said”the government 
controls the flow of food, medicine, and medical equipment to the 
very people it slaughtered. Food does arrive, he conceded, and 
basic medicines as well, but at Saddam's pace.
On this question of the work of the United Nations and its 
agencies, the rival Kurdish parties agree. "We've been asking for a 
four-hundred-bed hospital for Sulaimaniya for three years," said 
Nerchivan Barzani, the Prime Minister of the region controlled by 
the Kurdish Democratic Party, and Salih's counterpart. 
Sulaimaniya is in Salih's territory, but in this case geography 
doesn't matter. "It's our money," Barzani said. "But we need the 
approval of the Iraqis. They get to decide. The World Health 
Organization is taking its orders from the Iraqis. It's crazy."
Barzani and Salih accused the World Health Organization, in 
particular, of rewarding with lucrative contracts only companies 
favored by Saddam."Every time I interact with the U.N.," Salih 
said, "I think, My God, Jesse Helms is right. If the U.N. can't help 
us, this poor, dispossessed Muslim nation, then who is it for?"
Many Kurds believe that Iraq's friends in the U.N. system, 
particularly members of the Arab bloc, have worked to keep the 
Kurds' cause from being addressed. The Kurds face an 
institutional disadvantage at the U.N., where, unlike the 
Palestinians, they have not even been granted official observer 
status. Salih grew acerbic: "Compare us to other liberation 
movements around the world. We are very mature. We don't 
engage in terror. We don't condone extremist nationalist notions 
that can only burden our people. Please compare what we have 
achieved in the Kurdistan national-authority areas to the 
Palestinian national authority of Mr. Arafat. We have spent the 
last ten years building a secular, democratic society, a civil 
society. What has he built?"
Last week, in New York, I met with Benon Sevan, the United 
Nations undersecretary-general who oversees the oil-for-food 
program. He quickly let me know that he was unmoved by the 
demands of the Kurds. "If they had a theme song, it would be 
'Give Me, Give Me, Give Me,' " Sevan said. "I'm getting fed up 
with their complaints. You can tell them that." He said that under 
the oil-for-food program the "three northern governorates"”U.N. 
officials avoid the word "Kurdistan"”have been allocated billions 
of dollars in goods and services. "I don't know if they've ever had 
it so good," he said.
I mentioned the Kurds' complaint that they have been denied 
access to advanced medical equipment, and he said, "Nobody 
prevents them from asking. They should go ask the World Health 
Organization"”which reports to Sevan on matters related to Iraq. 
When I told Sevan that the Kurds have repeatedly asked the 
W.H.O., he said, "I'm not going to pass judgment on the W.H.O." 
As the interview ended, I asked Sevan about the morality of 
allowing the Iraqi regime to control the flow of food and medicine 
into Kurdistan. "Nobody's innocent," he said. "Please don't talk 
about morals with me."
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When I went to Kurdistan in January to report on the 1988 
genocide of the Kurds, I did not expect to be sidetracked by a 
debate over U.N. sanctions. And I certainly didn't expect to be 
sidetracked by crimes that Saddam is committing against the 
Kurds now”in particular "nationality correction," the law that 
Saddam's security services are using to implement a campaign of 
ethnic cleansing. Large-scale operations against the Kurds in 
Kirkuk, a city southeast of Erbil, and in other parts of Iraqi 
Kurdistan under Saddam's control, have received scant press 
attention in the West; there have been few news accounts and no 
Security Council condemnations drafted in righteous anger.
Saddam's security services have been demanding that Kurds 
"correct" their nationality by signing papers to indicate that their 
birth records are false”that they are in fact Arab. Those who 
don't sign have their property seized. Many have been evicted, 
often to Kurdish-controlled regions, to make room for Arab 
families. According to both the Kurdistan Democratic Party and 
the Patriotic Union of Kurdistan, more than a hundred thousand 
Kurds have been expelled from the Kirkuk area over the past two 
years.
Nationality correction is one technique that the Baghdad regime is 
using in an over-all "Arabization" campaign, whose aim is to 
replace the inhabitants of Kurdish cities, especially the oil-rich 
Kirkuk, with Arabs from central and southern Iraq, and even, 
according to persistent reports, with Palestinians. Arabization is 
not new, Peter Galbraith, a professor at the National Defense 
University and a former senior adviser to the Senate Foreign 
Relations Committee, says. Galbraith has monitored Saddam's 
anti-Kurdish activities since before the Gulf War. "It's been going 
on for twenty years," he told me. "Maybe it's picked up speed, but 
it is certainly nothing new. To my mind, it's part of a larger 
process that has been under way for many years, and is aimed at 
reducing the territory occupied by the Kurds and at destroying 
rural Kurdistan."
"This is the apotheosis of cultural genocide," said Saedi Barzinji, 
the president of Salahaddin University, in Erbil, who is a human-
rights lawyer and Massoud Barzani's legal adviser. Barzinji and 
other Kurdish leaders believe that Saddam is trying to set up a 
buffer zone between Arab Iraq and Kurdistan, just in case the 
Kurds win their independence. To help with this, Barzinji told me 
last month, Saddam is trying to rewrite Kirkuk's history, to give it 
an "Arab" past. If Kurds, Barzinji went on, "don't change their 
ethnic origin, they are given no food rations, no positions in 
government, no right to register the names of their new babies. In 
the last three to four weeks, hospitals have been ordered, the 
maternity wards ordered, not to register any Kurdish name." New 
parents are "obliged to choose an Arab name." Barzinji said that 
the nationality-correction campaign extends even to the dead. 
"Saddam is razing the gravestones, erasing the past, putting in new 
ones with Arab names," he said. "He wants to show that Kirkuk 
has always been Arab."
Some of the Kurds crossing the demarcation line between 
Saddam's forces and the Kurdish zone, it is said, are not being 
expelled but are fleeing for economic reasons. But in camps 
across Kurdistan I met refugees who told me stories of visits from 
the secret police in the middle of the night.
Many of the refugees from Kirkuk live in tent camps built on 
boggy fields. I visited one such camp at Beneslawa, not far from 
Erbil, where the mud was so thick that it nearly pulled off my 
shoes. The people at the camp”several hundred, according to two 
estimates I heard”are ragged and sick. A man named Howar told 
me that his suffering could not have been avoided even if he had 
agreed to change his ethnic identity.
"When you agree to change your nationality, the police write on 
your identity documents 'second-degree Arab,' which they know 
means Kurd," he told me. "So they always know you're a Kurd." 
(In a twist characteristic of Saddam's regime, Kurdish leaders told 
me, Kurds who agree to "change" their nationality are fined for 
having once claimed falsely to be Kurdish.)
Another refugee, Shawqat Hamid Muhammad, said that her son 
had gone to jail for two months for having a photograph of 
Mustafa Barzani in his possession. She said that she and her 
family had been in the Beneslawa camp for two months. "The 
police came and knocked on our door and told us we have to leave 
Kirkuk," she said. "We had to rent a truck to take our things out. 
We were given one day to leave. We have no idea who is in our 
house." Another refugee, a man named Ibrahim Jamil, wandered 
over to listen to the conversation. "The Arabs are winning 
Kirkuk," he said. "Soon the only people there will be Arabs, and 
Kurds who call themselves Arabs. They say we should be Arab. 
But I'm a Kurd. It would be easier for me to die than be an Arab. 
How can I not be a Kurd?"
Peter Galbraith told me that in 1987 he witnessed the destruction 
of Kurdish villages and cemeteries”"anything that was related to 
Kurdish identity," he said. "This was one of the factors that led me 
to conclude that it is a policy of genocide, a crime of intent, 
destroying a group whole or in part."
9. IRAQ'S ARMS RACE 
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In a series of meetings in the summer and fall of 1995, Charles 
Duelfer, the deputy executive chairman of the United Nations 
Special Commission, or UNSCOM”the now defunct arms-
inspection team”met in Baghdad with Iraqi government 
delegations. The subject was the status of Iraq's nonconventional-
weapons programs, and Duelfer, an American diplomat on loan to 
the United Nations, was close to a breakthrough.
In early August, Saddam's son-in-law Hussein Kamel had defected 
to Jordan, and had then spoken publicly about Iraq's offensive 
biological, chemical, and nuclear capabilities. (Kamel later 
returned to Iraq and was killed almost immediately, on his father-
in-law's orders.) The regime's credibility was badly damaged by 
Kamel's revelations, and during these meetings the Iraqi 
representatives decided to tell Duelfer and his team more than 
they had ever revealed before. "This was the first time Iraq 
actually agreed to discuss the Presidential origins of these 
programs," Duelfer recalled. Among the most startling admissions 
made by the Iraqi scientists was that they had weaponized the 
biological agent aflatoxin.
Aflatoxin, which is produced from types of fungi that occur in 
moldy grains, is the biological agent that some Kurdish physicians 
suspect was mixed with chemical weapons and dropped on 
Kurdistan. Christine Gosden, the English geneticist, told me, 
"There is absolutely no forensic evidence whatsoever that 
aflatoxins have ever been used in northern Iraq, but this may be 
because no systematic testing has been carried out in the region, 
to my knowledge."
Duelfer told me, "We kept pressing the Iraqis to discuss the 
concept of use for aflatoxin. We learned that the origin of the 
biological-weapons program is in the security services, not in the 
military”meaning that it really came out of the assassinations 
program." The Iraqis, Duelfer said, admitted something else: they 
had loaded aflatoxin into two Scud-ready warheads, and also 
mixed aflatoxin with tear gas. They wouldn't say why.
In an op-ed article that Duelfer wrote for the Los Angeles Times 
last year about Iraqi programs to develop weapons of mass 
destruction, he offered this hypothesis: "If a regime wished to 
conceal a biological attack, what better way than this? Victims 
would suffer the short-term effects of inhaling tear gas and would 
assume that this was the totality of the attack: Subsequent cancers 
would not be linked to the prior event."
United Nations inspectors were alarmed to learn about the 
aflatoxin program. Richard Spertzel, the chief biological-weapons 
inspector for UNSCOM, put it this way: "It is a devilish weapon. 
Iraq was quite clearly aware of the long-term carcinogenic effect 
of aflatoxin. Aflatoxin can only do one thing”destroy people's 
livers. And I suspect that children are more susceptible. From a 
moral standpoint, aflatoxin is the cruellest weapon”it means 
watching children die slowly of liver cancer."
Spertzel believes that if aflatoxin were to be used as a weapon it 
would not be delivered by a missile. "Aflatoxin is a little tricky," 
he said. "I don't know if a single dose at one point in time is going 
to give you the long-term effects. Continuous, repeated 
exposure”through food”would be more effective." When I 
asked Spertzel if other countries have weaponized aflatoxin, he 
replied, "I don't know any other country that did it. I don't know 
any country that would."
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It is unclear what biological and chemical weapons Saddam 
possesses today. When he maneuvered UNSCOM out of his 
country in 1998, weapons inspectors had found a sizable portion 
of his arsenal but were vexed by what they couldn't find. His 
scientists certainly have produced and weaponized anthrax, and 
they have manufactured botulinum toxin, which causes muscular 
paralysis and death. They've made Clostridium perfringens, a 
bacterium that causes gas gangrene, a condition in which the flesh 
rots. They have also made wheat-cover smut, which can be used 
to poison crops, and ricin, which, when absorbed into the lungs, 
causes hemorrhagic pneumonia.
According to Gary Milhollin, the director of the Wisconsin 
Project on Nuclear Arms Control, whose Iraq Watch project 
monitors Saddam's weapons capabilities, inspectors could not 
account for a great deal of weaponry believed to be in Iraq's 
possession, including almost four tons of the nerve agent VX; six 
hundred tons of ingredients for VX; as much as three thousand 
tons of other poison-gas agents; and at least five hundred and fifty 
artillery shells filled with mustard gas. Nor did the inspectors find 
any stores of aflatoxin.
Saddam's motives are unclear, too. For the past decade, the 
development of these weapons has caused nothing but trouble for 
him; his international isolation grows not from his past crimes but 
from his refusal to let weapons inspectors dismantle his 
nonconventional-weapons programs. When I asked the Iraqi 
dissident Kanan Makiya why Saddam is so committed to these 
programs, he said, "I think this regime developed a very specific 
ideology associated with power, and how to extend that power, 
and these weapons play a very important psychological and 
political part." Makiya added, "They are seen as essential to the 
security and longevity of the regime."
Certainly, the threat of another Halabja has kept Iraq's citizens 
terrorized and compliant. Amatzia Baram, the Iraq expert at the 
University of Haifa, told me that in 1999 Iraqi troops in white 
biohazard suits suddenly surrounded the Shiite holy city of 
Karbala, in southern Iraq, which has been the scene of frequent 
uprisings against Saddam. (The Shiites make up about sixty per 
cent of Iraq's population, and the regime is preoccupied with the 
threat of another rebellion.) The men in the white suits did 
nothing; they just stood there. "But the message was clear," Baram 
said. " 'What we did to the Kurds in Halabja we can do to you.' It's 
a very effective psychological weapon. From the information I 
saw, people were really panicky. They ran into their homes and 
shut their windows. It worked extremely well."
Saddam's weapons of mass destruction clearly are not meant 
solely for domestic use. Several years ago in Baghdad, Richard 
Butler, who was then the chairman of UNSCOM, fell into 
conversation with Tariq Aziz, Saddam's confidant and Iraq's 
deputy Prime Minister. Butler asked Aziz to explain the rationale 
for Iraq's biological-weapons project, and he recalled Aziz's 
answer: "He said, 'We made bioweapons in order to deal with the 
Persians and the Jews.' "
Iraqi dissidents agree that Iraq's programs to build weapons of 
mass destruction are focussed on Israel. "Israel is the whole 
game," Ahmad Chalabi, the leader of the Iraqi National Congress, 
told me. "Saddam is always saying publicly, 'Who is going to fire 
the fortieth missile?' "”a reference to the thirty-nine Scud 
missiles he fired at Israel during the Gulf War. "He thinks he can 
kill one hundred thousand Israelis in a day with biological 
weapons." Chalabi added, "This is the only way he can be 
Saladin"”the Muslim hero who defeated the Crusaders. Students 
of Iraq and its government generally agree that Saddam would 
like to project himself as a leader of all the Arabs, and that the one 
sure way to do that is by confronting Israel.
In the Gulf War, when Saddam attacked Israel, he was hoping to 
provoke an Israeli response, which would drive America's Arab 
friends out of the allied coalition. Today, the experts say, 
Saddam's desire is to expel the Jews from history. In October of 
2000, at an Arab summit in Cairo, I heard the vice-chairman of 
Iraq's Revolutionary Command Council, a man named Izzat 
Ibrahim al-Douri, deliver a speech on Saddam's behalf, saying, 
"Jihad alone is capable of liberating Palestine and the rest of the 
Arab territories occupied by dirty Jews in their distorted Zionist 
entity."
Amatzia Baram said, "Saddam can absolve himself of all sins in 
the eyes of the Arab and Muslim worlds by bringing Israel to its 
knees. He not only wants to be a hero in his own press, which 
already recognizes him as a Saladin, but wants to make sure that a 
thousand years from now children in the fourth grade will know 
that he is the one who destroyed Israel."
It is no comfort to the Kurds that the Jews are now Saddam's main 
preoccupation. The Kurds I spoke with, even those who agree that 
Saddam is aiming his remaining Scuds at Israel, believe that he is 
saving some of his "special weapons"”a popular euphemism 
inside the Iraqi regime”for a return visit to Halabja. The day I 
visited the Kalak Bridge, which divides the Kurds from the Iraqi 
Army's Jerusalem brigade, I asked Muhammad Najar, the local 
official, why the brigade was not facing west, toward its target. 
"The road to Jerusalem," he replied, "goes through Kurdistan."
{PRIVATE "TYPE=PICT;ALT="}
A few weeks ago, after my return from Iraq, I stopped by the 
Israeli Embassy in Washington to see the Ambassador, David 
Ivry. In 1981, Ivry, who then led Israel's Air Force, commanded 
Operation Opera, the strike against the Osirak nuclear reactor near 
Baghdad. The action was ordered by Prime Minister Menachem 
Begin, who believed that by hitting the reactor shortly before it 
went online he could stop Iraq from building an atomic bomb. 
After the attack, Israel was condemned for what the Times called 
"inexcusable and short-sighted aggression." Today, though, Israel's 
action is widely regarded as an act of muscular arms control. "In 
retrospect, the Israeli strike bought us a decade," Gary Milhollin, 
of the Wisconsin Project, said. "I think if the Israelis had not hit 
the reactor the Iraqis would have had bombs by 1990"”the year 
Iraq invaded Kuwait.
Today, a satellite photograph of the Osirak site hangs on a wall in 
Ivry's office. The inscription reads, "For General David 
Ivry”With thanks and appreciation for the outstanding job he did 
on the Iraqi nuclear program in 1981, which made our job much 
easier in Desert Storm." It is signed "Dick Cheney."
"Preëmption is always a positive," Ivry said.
Saddam Hussein never gave up his hope of turning Iraq into a 
nuclear power. After the Osirak attack, he rebuilt, redoubled his 
efforts, and dispersed his facilities. Those who have followed 
Saddam's progress believe that no single strike today would 
eradicate his nuclear program. I talked about this prospect last fall 
with August Hanning, the chief of the B.N.D., the German 
intelligence agency, in Berlin. We met in the new glass-and-steel 
Chancellery, overlooking the renovated Reichstag.
The Germans have a special interest in Saddam's intentions. 
German industry is well represented in the ranks of foreign 
companies that have aided Saddam's nonconventional-weapons 
programs, and the German government has been publicly 
regretful. Hanning told me that his agency had taken the lead in 
exposing the companies that helped Iraq build a poison-gas 
factory at Samarra. The Germans also feel, for the most obvious 
reasons, a special responsibility to Israel's security, and this, too, 
motivates their desire to expose Iraq's weapons-of-mass-
destruction programs. Hanning is tall, thin, and almost 
translucently white. He is sparing with words, but he does not 
equivocate. "It is our estimate that Iraq will have an atomic bomb 
in three years," he said.
There is some debate among arms-control experts about exactly 
when Saddam will have nuclear capabilities. But there is no 
disagreement that Iraq, if unchecked, will have them soon, and a 
nuclear-armed Iraq would alter forever the balance of power in 
the Middle East. "The first thing that occurs to any military 
planner is force protection," Charles Duelfer told me. "If your 
assessment of the threat is chemical or biological, you can get 
individual protective equipment and warning systems. If you think 
he's going to use a nuclear weapon, where are you going to 
concentrate your forces?"
There is little doubt what Saddam might do with an atomic bomb 
or with his stocks of biological and chemical weapons. When I 
talked about Saddam's past with the medical geneticist Christine 
Gosden, she said, "Please understand, the Kurds were for 
practice." {PRIVATE "TYPE=PICT;ALT="}
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